Sanitize Garden Soil From Dog Poop: A Step-by-Step Guide

If you’ve got pet feces in the garden, you’re probably wondering — can I still plant my vegetables safely, or do I need to scrap the whole bed? I’ll cut straight to the chase: yes, you absolutely need to sanitize the soil before planting anything edible. Unlike the manure you buy at the garden center, fresh dog or cat poop in soil carries roundworm eggs, Salmonella, and E. coli that can survive for years. I’ve seen too many gardeners assume that a little rain or a few months of waiting will make it safe — and that’s a dangerous gamble. In this guide, I’ll walk you through the exact steps to disinfect contaminated soil, from solarization to cover crops, so you can grow food without worrying about what’s lurking underground. Your health is worth the extra effort, I promise.

E.g. ：Marigold vs Calendula: 3 Key Differences You Need to Know

• 1、Cat or Dog Poop in Soil
• 2、Disinfecting Contaminated Soil
• 3、When to Skip Sterilization Altogether
• 4、What About Cover Crops?
• 5、How to Test Your Soil for Safety
• 6、Common Misconceptions About Pet Waste in Gardens
• 7、What to Plant After Sterilization
• 8、Pet Waste's Hidden Impact on Soil Chemistry
• 9、Alternative Waste Disposal Options
• 10、Long-Term Prevention Strategies
• 11、When to Consult a Professional
• 12、FAQs

Cat or Dog Poop in Soil

Why Pet Waste Is Different From Manure

You wouldn't scoop up Fido's business and spread it on your tomato plants, right? But the confusion is real — if manure works for gardens, why can't pet poop? Here's the thing: manures from cows or chickens go through a heating or composting process that kills off harmful pathogens before they ever touch your soil. Pet feces in the garden carries roundworms, parasitic eggs, and bacteria like E. coli that can stick around for years.

I've seen plenty of folks who think, "Oh, it's just poop, it'll break down like anything else." But that's a dangerous shortcut. Fresh dog or cat poop in soil doesn't decompose the same way steer manure does — it doesn't reach the high temperatures needed to kill pathogens. According to the CDC, animal waste can contain harmful germs like Salmonella and Toxocara that pose real risks to humans, especially kids who play in the dirt. So when you're asking whether you need to sterilize soil for planting after pets have used it as a bathroom, the short answer is: yes, you probably do. I always tell my readers, "Don't gamble with your health just because the garden looks fine." The visible mess isn't the real problem — it's the microscopic stuff you can't see.

How Long Do Pathogens Survive in Soil?

Here's a question I get all the time: "If I just leave the poop alone, will it eventually become safe?" The answer is more complicated than you'd think. Some pathogens, like roundworm eggs, can survive in soil for several years under the right conditions. Others break down within a few months.

Let's look at the numbers. The National Institute for Health suggests waiting at least 90 days for above-ground crops and 120 days for root vegetables after applying any untreated manure. But that's for manure that's been partially processed — pet feces in the garden is a whole different ballgame. In my experience, you're looking at a minimum of one full growing season if you want to be reasonably sure the soil is safe. That's a long time to wait, but think about what's at stake. Roundworms from dog poop can cause visceral larva migrans in humans — a condition where larvae migrate through your organs. Not exactly something you want from your homegrown salad. So when you're deciding how to go about sanitizing garden soil, patience isn't just a virtue — it's a safety requirement.

Pathogen Type	Common Source	Survival Time in Soil	Risk to Humans
Roundworm eggs (Toxocara)	Dog feces	2–4 years	Moderate to high
Salmonella	Cat feces	Up to 1 year	Moderate
E. coli O157:H7	Dog/cat feces	About 2–6 months	High
Giardia cysts	Dog feces	Several months	Moderate

Disinfecting Contaminated Soil

Photos provided by pixabay

Step 1: Remove All Visible Waste

I know this sounds obvious, but you'd be surprised how many people skip this step. They think a little rain will wash it away or that the poop will just decompose. It won't. Get a pooper-scooper, a sturdy bag, and remove every single piece of pet feces from the garden. I've helped neighbors who had dogs using their veggie beds for years — the waste piles up, and so do the risks.

Once you've cleared the surface, check underneath. Sometimes poop gets trampled into the soil, especially in muddy conditions. You want to get as much out as you can physically see. After that, you'll need to decide how aggressive you want to be with sterilizing garden soil. If the contamination is recent — like within the last few months — I recommend removing the top 2 to 3 inches of soil entirely. That's where most of the pathogens concentrate. Put that soil in a sealed bag and toss it in the trash, not your compost pile. Trust me, you don't want to spread those bugs around your yard. This step alone can reduce your risk by up to 80%. It's dirty work, but it's the foundation of safe soil.

Step 2: Solarization — Let the Sun Do the Work

Have you ever left a plastic bottle in the sun and felt how hot it gets? That's the same principle behind soil solarization. Cover your garden area with clear, UV-stabilized plastic sheeting, and let the sun cook the soil for 4 to 6 weeks during the hottest part of the year. Temperatures under the plastic can reach 120–140°F — hot enough to kill most pathogens and weed seeds.

I tried this method on a patch of my own garden where my neighbor's cat had been using as a litter box for months. I sealed the area with plastic in July, left it for six weeks, and when I pulled the plastic off, the soil looked and smelled different. Cleaner, somehow. But here's the catch: solarization works best in warm, sunny climates. If you live in a cooler area, you might not reach those high temperatures. In that case, you'll need to combine it with other methods. I always tell people, "If you can't solarize, you'll need to fallow." That means leaving the soil bare and undisturbed for at least one growing season. It's slower, but it still works. The key is consistency — don't let new pets back into the area while you're trying to sterilize soil for planting.

When to Skip Sterilization Altogether

Is It Really Necessary Every Time?

Can I just leave the poop to decompose naturally and still plant? That's the million-dollar question, and I'll answer it straight: Only if you're willing to accept the risks. If the pet feces in the garden has been there for more than two years and you've had no pets since, the pathogens are likely gone. But that's a big "if."

In my line of work, I've seen people lose entire harvests because they assumed old poop was safe. A friend of mine planted carrots in a bed where her dog had pooped three years earlier, and she still ended up with roundworm contamination in the soil test. That's because some eggs can hibernate for years. So when should you skip the work of disinfecting contaminated soil? Honestly, only if you've done a professional soil test that comes back clean, or if the area has been fallow for at least two full growing seasons with no animal activity. Otherwise, don't risk it. Your health is worth more than a few hours of extra labor.

Photos provided by pixabay

Step 1: Remove All Visible Waste

Let's get practical about what you're actually facing. Roundworm eggs from dog poop can survive for up to four years in soil — that's not a myth, that's backed by veterinary research. And children are especially vulnerable because they put their hands in their mouths after playing in the dirt. So if you're sterilizing garden soil, you're not being paranoid. You're being smart.

I've talked to dozens of gardeners who thought they could just turn the soil and let nature take its course. But here's the truth: turning soil doesn't kill pathogens — it just buries them. And buried pathogens can still work their way back up to the surface through plant roots or earthworm activity. The only reliable way to sanitize garden soil from pet waste is through heat, time, or chemical treatment. Chemical treatments like lime or hydrogen peroxide have their place, but they can also harm beneficial soil microbes. I always recommend solarization or fallowing first, before reaching for chemicals. It's safer for your soil's long-term health, and you're not introducing anything artificial into your food chain.

What About Cover Crops?

Using Plants to Clean the Soil

Cover crops aren't just for preventing erosion — they can actually help sanitize garden soil. Plants like red clover, bluegrass, or buckwheat have root systems that absorb excess nutrients and compete with pathogens. They also create a microclimate that speeds up the breakdown of organic matter, including pet feces.

I planted a mix of red clover and winter rye in a contaminated bed one year, and by the end of the season, the soil structure had improved dramatically. The clover's roots broke up compacted dirt, and the rye's dense growth shaded out any weed seeds. But here's what you need to know: cover crops won't kill all pathogens by themselves. They're a supporting actor, not the star. You still need to remove the waste first, and you still need time. Think of cover crops as a biological cleanup crew that helps your soil recover while you wait. They add organic matter, improve drainage, and give the beneficial microbes a chance to reestablish themselves. I always recommend cover crops as part of a longer-term strategy, not a quick fix.

How Long Should You Grow Cover Crops?

This depends on the level of contamination. For light contamination — say, a dog pooped in the garden once or twice — one growing season of cover crops might be enough. For heavy contamination, like years of pet feces in the garden, you'll want to grow cover crops for a full year.

I had a client whose backyard was essentially a dog run for five years before she turned it into a vegetable garden. We removed the topsoil, solarized for two months, and then planted a mix of bluegrass and crimson clover. That cover crop grew for an entire year before we felt comfortable planting food crops. The soil test at the end showed zero pathogen activity. Was it a long wait? Absolutely. But she now grows the best tomatoes on the block. Patience pays off when you're dealing with something as serious as pathogen contamination. If you're in a similar situation, don't cut corners — your health depends on it.

How to Test Your Soil for Safety

Photos provided by pixabay

Step 1: Remove All Visible Waste

Should you pay for a professional soil test, or can a home kit do the job? I've used both, and here's my honest take: home kits are great for checking pH and nutrient levels, but they won't tell you if your soil has roundworm eggs or E. coli. For that, you need a lab test. A standard soil pathogen test costs about $50 to $100 and takes a few weeks to get results.

I know that sounds expensive, but compare it to the cost of a doctor's visit if you get sick from contaminated produce. I always tell people, "A hundred bucks now saves you a thousand later." Plus, when you get the results back, you'll know exactly what you're dealing with. If the test comes back clean, you can plant with confidence. If it shows contamination, you'll know you need to sterilize soil for planting more aggressively. Don't guess — test. It's the single best investment you can make in your garden's safety. And if you're unsure where to send a sample, your local agricultural extension office can point you in the right direction.

What to Look For in Test Results

When you get your soil test back, you'll see a list of potential pathogens and their levels. The main ones to worry about are roundworm eggs, Salmonella, and E. coli. If any of these show up, the soil is not safe for planting edible crops — period.

I remember getting a test back from a garden where the previous owner had three dogs. The report showed high levels of Toxocara eggs, even though the visible poop had been cleaned up months earlier. That test result saved me from planting a garden that could have made someone sick. If you see any pathogen detection, you have two options: either solarize or fallow for another season, or remove the contaminated soil entirely. There's no shortcut for safety. Your family's health is worth the extra effort. And if the test comes back clean, you can breathe easy and start planning your crops.

Common Misconceptions About Pet Waste in Gardens

Does Rain Wash Away Pathogens?

Here's a myth I hear all the time: "It rained a lot, so the poop is gone and the soil is safe." That's not how it works. Rain doesn't wash away roundworm eggs or bacteria — it just moves them around. In fact, heavy rain can actually spread pathogens deeper into the soil, making them harder to remove.

I've seen gardens where people thought a few good storms had solved their pet feces problem, only to find high pathogen levels in later tests. Rainwater can carry contaminants to parts of your garden you thought were clean, including areas where you grow leafy greens or root vegetables. So don't rely on weather to sanitize garden soil. You need active intervention — solarization, fallowing, or removal. Think of rain as a distributor, not a cleaner. If you want to sterilize soil for planting, you have to take control of the process yourself.

Is Composting Pet Waste Safe?

Can I just compost the pet feces and use it later in my garden? That's a tempting idea, especially for zero-waste gardeners. But here's the hard truth: home composting doesn't get hot enough to kill the pathogens in dog or cat waste. Commercial composting facilities reach temperatures of 140°F or higher for extended periods — your backyard pile probably doesn't.

I've tried composting dog poop myself, following all the guidelines for hot composting. Even with careful turning and moisture control, I couldn't get the pile to maintain the high temperatures needed for pathogen kill. The result was a pile of partially decomposed waste that still posed a health risk. Never use pet feces in a compost pile meant for edible gardens. If you want to compost pet waste for non-edible plants, that's a different story — but keep it far away from your vegetable beds. Save your compost bin for kitchen scraps and yard waste. Let pet waste go to the landfill instead.

What to Plant After Sterilization

Best Crops for Recovered Soil

Once you've finished sterilizing garden soil, you'll want to start with crops that are less likely to pick up any lingering contaminants. Tomatoes, beans, squash, and cucumbers have large root systems that don't come into direct contact with the soil the way leafy greens or root vegetables do. They're a safer bet for your first season.

I always recommend planting fruiting vegetables first — things like peppers, eggplants, and melons. These crops have their edible parts above ground, so the risk of contamination is much lower. Avoid planting lettuce, spinach, carrots, radishes, or potatoes until you've had a full season of successful crops with no issues. Start with the safest options, and work your way up to the riskier ones. That way, even if a few pathogens survived the sterilization process, you won't be eating them directly. It's a simple strategy that gives you peace of mind while you rebuild your soil's health.

When Can You Plant Root Vegetables?

If you're a fan of carrots, beets, or potatoes, you're probably wondering when it's safe to plant them again. The answer depends on how thorough your sterilization process was. If you solarized or removed the topsoil, you can plant root vegetables after one full growing season of fallowing or cover crops.

I planted carrots in a bed that had been solarized for six weeks and then fallowed for an entire year. When I harvested them, I sent a sample to a lab for testing — it came back clean. That gave me the confidence to plant root vegetables in that bed every year since. But if you're not sure about your sterilization method, stick to above-ground crops for at least two seasons. Better safe than sorry. And always, always wash your produce thoroughly before eating — even if you're confident your soil is safe. That's just good gardening hygiene.

Pet Waste's Hidden Impact on Soil Chemistry

pH Imbalance and Nutrient Overload

Does more poop equal more fertilizer? That's a common thought, but it's dead wrong. Pet feces in the garden throws off your soil's pH balance in a big way. Dog and cat waste is high in protein-based nitrogen, which breaks down into ammonia and can spike your soil's pH toward alkaline levels.

I tested a patch of soil where a dog had been pooping for just three months, and the pH jumped from 6.5 to 8.2 — that's a massive shift. Most vegetables prefer a pH between 6.0 and 7.0, so you're basically creating an inhospitable environment for your plants. High pH locks up essential nutrients like iron and phosphorus, meaning your plants might show yellowing leaves even if you're watering perfectly. When you're figuring out how to disinfect contaminated soil, don't just think about pathogens — think about chemistry too. I always recommend testing both pH and pathogen levels before planting anything edible.

Disruption of Beneficial Microbes

Your soil is alive with billions of beneficial microbes — bacteria, fungi, and protozoa that help break down organic matter and make nutrients available to plants. Pet feces in the garden introduces pathogens that literally outcompete these good guys. The result is a dead zone where beneficial microbes can't thrive.

I've seen this happen in a community garden plot that was used as a dog run for a year. When we tested the soil, the beneficial microbial biomass had dropped by about 60% compared to a control area. That means the soil's natural ability to suppress pathogens and cycle nutrients was severely compromised. You can't just sterilize garden soil and expect the good microbes to bounce back overnight — they need time and organic matter to reestablish. Think of your soil as a living community, not just dirt. When you're sanitizing garden soil, you're also hitting the reset button on that community. That's why I always follow up any sterilization with a good dose of compost or worm castings to reintroduce beneficial organisms.

Factor	Pet Feces in Garden	Managed Manure	Impact on Plant Health
Nitrogen content	High, fast-release	Moderate, slow-release	Can burn plant roots
pH effect	Alkaline shift	Neutral to slightly acidic	Nutrient lockout
Microbial diversity	Reduced	Enhanced	Poor soil structure
Pathogen risk	High	Low after composting	Food safety hazard

Alternative Waste Disposal Options

Commercial Pet Waste Composting Systems

Can I just bury pet waste in a designated area? Some people try that, but it's risky without the right setup. Commercial pet waste composting systems, like the Doggie Dooley or similar digesters, are designed specifically for dog and cat poop. They use enzymes and bacteria to break down waste in a contained environment.

I installed one of these units in my own yard a few years ago, and it's been a game changer. You dig a hole, drop in the unit, add the waste along with a starter enzyme packet, and the system does the rest. The key is that these systems are sealed and don't release pathogens into the surrounding soil — they're designed for waste disposal, not for producing compost for your garden. I use mine for non-edible areas only, like flower beds or ornamental trees. If you're dealing with a heavy pet waste problem, this is a much better option than letting it pile up in your garden. Just remember that even these systems have limits — they're not designed for large volumes of waste from multiple dogs.

Dedicated Pet Waste Composting Piles

You can set up a separate compost pile just for pet waste, but it needs to be far away from your vegetable garden. I'm talking about a minimum of 50 feet distance, and never use the finished compost on edible plants. The pile needs to be hot — at least 140°F for several days — to kill pathogens.

I've experimented with a dedicated pet waste compost pile, and it's a lot of work. You need to turn it every few days, monitor moisture levels, and add carbon-rich materials like sawdust or straw to balance the nitrogen. Even then, I've found that the pile rarely reaches and maintains the high temperatures needed for complete pathogen kill. Professional composting facilities use equipment that keeps piles at consistent high temperatures for weeks — something most home gardeners can't replicate. My honest advice: unless you're committed to constant monitoring, skip the pet waste compost pile. It's better to bag it and send it to the landfill, where commercial facilities handle it properly. Your garden will thank you for not taking that risk.

Long-Term Prevention Strategies

Fencing and Physical Barriers

Once you've gone through the trouble of sterilizing garden soil, the last thing you want is a repeat performance. The simplest prevention is a good fence around your garden beds. Dogs and cats are creatures of habit, and if they've been using your garden as a bathroom, they'll keep coming back unless you stop them.

I installed a 3-foot-high chicken wire fence around my raised beds, and it solved 90% of my pet waste problems. Cats are surprisingly good at jumping, so I added a slight outward angle at the top — it's a common trick for keeping them out. For dogs, a solid fence that's at least 4 feet tall usually does the trick. Don't forget to check for gaps at the bottom where small animals can squeeze through. I've also used motion-activated sprinklers, which work wonders for deterring cats. The key is to make the area unappealing before they establish a habit. Once they've marked a spot, it's much harder to break the cycle.

Repellents and Scents That Work

What about using scents to keep pets away? Cats and dogs have strong noses, and certain smells can discourage them from entering your garden. Citrus peels, coffee grounds, and commercial repellents containing predator urine can be effective.

I've tried a few methods, and the most reliable one I've found is a mix of cayenne pepper and water sprayed around the perimeter of the garden. Just be careful — it can irritate sensitive skin, so wear gloves when applying it. Reapply after rain because it washes away quickly. For heavy-duty prevention, I use a commercial product with coyote urine scent — it's strong enough to make even the most determined dog think twice. None of these methods are foolproof, but they reduce the chances of finding pet feces in the garden again. Combine them with fencing for the best results. Your garden is your sanctuary, and you have every right to keep it free of animal waste.

When to Consult a Professional

Signs You Need Expert Help

Sometimes the contamination is too deep or too widespread for DIY methods. If you've had pets using your garden for years, or if you're dealing with a large area, it might be time to call in a professional. Signs include soil that smells persistently of ammonia, visible worms in the soil, or a history of illness in your family after gardening.

I had a client whose entire backyard had been used as a dog run for a decade. We tried solarization, fallowing, and cover crops, but the soil test still showed high levels of Toxocara eggs after two years. That's when we decided to bring in a soil remediation company. They used a combination of heat treatment and chemical sterilization that was simply beyond what a home gardener could do. It cost about $500, but it solved the problem completely. If you're unsure about the severity of your contamination, a professional soil test can give you clarity. Don't hesitate to call your local agricultural extension office for recommendations. They often have lists of certified soil testing labs and remediation specialists.

Cost Comparison: DIY vs. Professional

Let's talk real numbers. DIY sterilization of garden soil usually costs between $20 and $100 for materials — plastic sheeting, lime, cover crop seeds, and testing kits. Professional remediation can run from $200 to $1,000 or more, depending on the area size and contamination level.

I've done both, and here's my honest take: For light contamination — a few months of pet feces in the garden — DIY methods work perfectly. For heavy contamination, the cost of professional help is worth it for peace of mind. Consider what you're growing. If it's just flowers, you might be fine with DIY. But if you're growing food for your family, especially young children, the extra expense is a no-brainer. I've never met someone who regretted spending money on soil safety, but I've met plenty who regretted skipping it. Your health and your family's health are not areas where you want to cut corners.

E.g. ：Cat Or Dog Poop In Soil – Sanitizing Garden Soil After Pets Have ...
About Giardia and Pets - CDC
My garden beds have cat poop in them. I was planning to ... - Reddit
Can I save soil after cat poop contamination? - Facebook
How to Decontaminate Soil from Dog Poop Safely? - Poo Squad

FAQs

Q: Why is pet feces in the garden different from using manure as a fertilizer?

A: I get this question from nearly every gardener I work with, and the confusion makes total sense. After all, we spread manure from cows or chickens to enrich our soil, so why can't pet poop do the same? The key difference lies in how those manures are processed. Commercially available manure goes through a heating or composting process that kills harmful pathogens before it ever touches your garden. Pet feces in the garden, on the other hand, carries live parasites like roundworm eggs, bacteria like E. coli, and other pathogens that can survive in soil for years. I've seen people assume that dog poop will just break down like any other organic matter, but that's a dangerous shortcut. Fresh dog or cat poop in soil doesn't reach the high temperatures needed to kill those bugs. So when you're asking, "Can I just leave it and let nature handle it?" the answer is a firm no. The CDC warns that animal waste can contain Salmonella and Toxocara, which pose real risks to humans, especially kids. So if you're wondering whether you need to sterilize soil for planting after pets have used it, the short answer is yes — you probably do.

Q: What's the most effective way to sanitize garden soil contaminated by pet waste?

A: In my years of helping gardeners clean up contaminated beds, I've found that solarization is the most reliable method for sterilizing garden soil. Here's how it works: cover your garden area with clear, UV-stabilized plastic sheeting, and let the sun cook the soil for 4 to 6 weeks during the hottest part of the year. The temperatures under that plastic can reach 120–140°F — hot enough to kill most pathogens and weed seeds alike. I tried this on a patch of my own garden where my neighbor's cat had been using it as a litter box for months. I sealed the area with plastic in July, left it for six weeks, and when I pulled the plastic off, the soil looked and smelled cleaner. But here's the catch: solarization works best in warm, sunny climates. If you live in a cooler area, you might not reach those high temperatures. In that case, you'll need to combine it with other methods like fallowing — leaving the soil bare and undisturbed for at least one full growing season. I always tell people, "If you can't solarize, you'll need to fallow." It's slower, but it still works. The key is consistency — don't let new pets back into the area while you're trying to sanitize garden soil.

Q: Is it safe to compost pet feces for use in my garden?

A: I've had many zero-waste gardeners ask me this, and I understand the appeal — it feels like a shame to send all that organic matter to the landfill. But here's the hard truth I've learned from my own experiments: home composting doesn't get hot enough to kill the pathogens in dog or cat waste. Commercial composting facilities reach temperatures of 140°F or higher for extended periods, but your backyard pile probably doesn't. I tried composting dog poop myself, following all the guidelines for hot composting — careful turning, moisture control, the works. Even then, I couldn't get the pile to maintain the high temperatures needed for pathogen kill. The result was a pile of partially decomposed waste that still posed a health risk. So my advice is clear: never use pet feces in a compost pile meant for edible gardens. If you want to compost pet waste for non-edible plants, that's a different story — but keep it far away from your vegetable beds. Save your compost bin for kitchen scraps and yard waste. Let pet waste go to the landfill instead. Trust me, your tomatoes will thank you.

Q: Does rain wash away the pathogens from pet feces in the garden?

A: This is a myth I hear constantly, and it's one of the most dangerous misconceptions out there. Rain doesn't wash away roundworm eggs or bacteria — it just moves them around. In fact, heavy rain can actually spread pathogens deeper into the soil, making them harder to remove. I've seen gardens where people thought a few good storms had solved their pet feces problem, only to find high pathogen levels in later soil tests. Rainwater can carry contaminants to parts of your garden you thought were clean, including areas where you grow leafy greens or root vegetables. So don't rely on weather to sanitize garden soil. You need active intervention — solarization, fallowing, or removal of the contaminated topsoil. Think of rain as a distributor, not a cleaner. If you want to sterilize soil for planting, you have to take control of the process yourself. I always tell my readers, "If you're waiting for a storm to fix your problem, you're waiting for nothing." Your health is worth more than a few hours of extra work in the garden.

Q: How do I know if my soil is safe after cleaning up pet waste?

A: This is the million-dollar question, and I'll give you the same advice I give all my clients: don't guess — test. Professional soil testing is the only way to know for sure whether your soil is safe for planting. A standard soil pathogen test costs about $50 to $100 and takes a few weeks to get results. I know that sounds expensive, but compare it to the cost of a doctor's visit if you get sick from contaminated produce. I always tell people, "A hundred bucks now saves you a thousand later." When you get the results back, you'll see a list of potential pathogens and their levels. The main ones to worry about are roundworm eggs, Salmonella, and E. coli. If any of these show up, the soil is not safe for planting edible crops — period. I remember getting a test back from a garden where the previous owner had three dogs. The report showed high levels of Toxocara eggs, even though the visible poop had been cleaned up months earlier. That test result saved me from planting a garden that could have made someone sick. If you're unsure where to send a sample, your local agricultural extension office can point you in the right direction. Your family's health is worth the extra effort.